Located
along the Hamakua Coast on the northeast shore of the Big Island of
Hawaii, the Waipio Valley is the largest and most southern of the
seven valleys on the windward side of the Kohala Mountains.
The Waipio Valley, a mile wide at the coastline and almost six
miles deep, is rich in Hawaiian history. On both sides of the valley
there are cliffs reaching almost 2000 feet with hundreds of cascading
waterfalls, including one of Hawaii's most celebrated waterfalls -
Hi`ilawe. The Waipio Valley is often referred to as the "Valley
of the Kings" because it was once the home to many of the rulers
of Hawaii. The valley has both historical and cultural importance to
the Hawaiian people.
A single road accesses the very steep (25% grade) valley. Unless you
have a 4-wheel drive vehicle, your drive will end at the Waipio Valley
Lookout. Here the view of the valley and beach is spectacular. For an
even better experience, hike down the trail to the edge of the valley
and discover the wonders of Waipio, even though local Hawaiians call
the access road "One mile down and five miles up". The
direction of your hike is up to you; the valley is wide open and
wonderful jungle trees, rivers, and Hawaiian animals stretch in all
directions. Camping is very enjoyable in the Waipio and several bed and
breakfasts also exist in the valley.
The Waipio river meanders through the valley fed by many small and
one very magnificent waterfall. At the mouth of the river there is a
black sand beach, where many of the locals surf and fish, often used by
motion picture production companies. All along the black sand beach
Ironwood trees blow in the breezes. People camp beneath the trees, fish
the waters and go surfing. If you're lucky, you just might see spinner
dolphins frolicking in the waves. If you feel tempted to go out and
play with these dolphins off the beach at Waipio, beware swimming in
Waipio. The surf and currents can be hazardous; exercise great
caution when considering going out for swim. The undertow and rip
currents can be dangerous. You could find yourself in Milu, the land of
the dead before your time. Milu is named after a chief of Waipio who
became the lord of the dead.
The Valley is 1000 feet deep and a mile across. Across the river
there is the steep wall with a six mile trail, the switchback, or
Z-trail as valley residents call it, leading to the Waimanu Valley. It
is possible to hike deep into the adjacent valleys, passing numerous
streams and gulches, ancient taro terrace plantations and temple
foundations - these trails are quite rough and not well marked and
should not be undertaken by inexperienced hikers.
This valley is smaller, more remote, less cultivated and more
luxuriant than Waipio. It's for experienced backpackers. While it is
possible to go to Waimanu Valley and return to Waipio all in one day,
plan to go for at least a couple of nights. Be aware, though, there are
no formal camping facilities there. Camping permits are available from
the Division of Wildlife and Forestry in Hilo. All food and water must
be packed. Take plenty of water - maybe a quart for each person.
Drink untreated water, however, at your own risk. Although
beautiful fresh-water rivers merge in Waipio and flow into the sea -
don't drink from them. Leptospirosis (a bacterial infection) could mess
up your holiday. There is a good fresh-water spring at the back of the
valley, however, where the local people get clean water.
Today, amidst taro, coconuts, avocados, bananas and large assortment
of other wild fruits, nuts and flora Waipio has 60-100 residents,
a mixture of farmers of Hawaiian, Japanese and Chinese ancestry and
haoles looking for seclusion and self-sufficient life-style. The appeal
to share this tranquility has ironically turned Waipio into a small
commercial tourist attraction.